Your first skateboard: what to buy and what to skip

The biggest waste of money in skateboarding is not buying an expensive board. It’s buying a cheap one from the wrong place and then buying a real one three weeks later because the first one was unrideable. I see this happen constantly. A parent buys a $40 board from a department store, the kid shows up to a lesson on it, and I spend the first ten minutes explaining why the wheels barely spin and the trucks feel like wet cement.

The second biggest waste is over-researching. I have had adults tell me they spent three weeks comparing deck concave profiles before booking a lesson. Three weeks they could have been riding. Here is what you need to know, and nothing more.

What kind of skateboard do you want?

There are three main types and each one is built for a different purpose. Getting the wrong type is a bigger problem than getting the wrong size or the wrong brand.

A standard skateboard (popsicle shape) is what most people picture. Symmetrical, kicked up at both ends, designed for tricks and skatepark riding. This is what you want if you are here to learn ollies, ride in skateparks, and progress through tricks. It is also perfectly fine for cruising around the neighborhood.

A cruiser is shorter than a longboard with softer wheels. Built for getting around, not for tricks. Good if your only goal is commuting or riding around the park with your kids. Not what you want for lessons.

A longboard is longer, wider, with big soft wheels. Great for downhill, carving, and long-distance riding. Not for tricks, not for skateparks. I wrote a full comparison if you are deciding between the two.

For most people reading this, the answer is a standard skateboard. That is what I teach on, and it gives you the widest range of things you can do as you progress.

What size should your first skateboard be?

Deck width is the only number that matters. Match it to your shoe size and go wider if you are between options. Wider boards are more stable, and stability is everything when you are learning.

I have a more detailed breakdown in my sizing guide, including truck matching and wheel size. But for your first board, just get the width right and the rest will follow.

Where to buy (and where not to)

Buy from a skate shop. Not Amazon, not Walmart, not Target. The boards at those stores are made to look like skateboards, not to ride like them. The bearings are slow, the trucks are stiff or stripped, and the decks are heavy particle board instead of maple.

A skate shop sells boards made by companies that skaters run. The staff rides. They will look at your shoe size, ask what you want to do, and hand you the right setup. That ten-minute conversation is worth more than any amount of online research.

If you are in the NYC area, check out my guide to the best skate shops in New York City. If there is no skate shop near you, online shops like Tactics, Skate Warehouse, and CCS are legitimate retailers that carry real brands and ship completes ready to ride.

How much should you spend?

A good complete skateboard from a real brand costs $120 to $160. That gets you a maple deck, quality trucks, decent bearings, and wheels that roll. It will last through your first year of skating without falling apart.

Under $80, you are almost certainly getting a department store board regardless of where you buy it. Over $200 and you are paying for custom components that a beginner cannot appreciate yet. The sweet spot is in the middle.

Brands I see perform well for beginners: Baker, Element, Real, Creature, Krooked, Toy Machine, Girl, Chocolate, Santa Cruz. Any of these as a complete will serve you well. The graphic on the bottom is personal preference. The wood and hardware underneath it is what matters.

What else do you need besides the board?

A helmet and flat-soled shoes. Everything else is optional to start. Knee pads and wrist guards are strongly recommended for kids and for adults who are nervous about falling.

The helmet should be a CPSC-certified skate helmet, not a bike helmet. Skate helmets cover more of the back of the head. Triple Eight and Pro-Tec are the standards. I have a full breakdown of gear in my protective gear guide.

For shoes, you want flat soles with good grip. Vans, Converse, Nike SB, or any flat-soled sneaker works. Running shoes with cushioned, curved soles make the board harder to feel and control. I wrote a separate guide on the best shoes for skateboarding if you want specifics.

The one thing I tell every beginner

Stop researching and start riding. The board you want in six months will be different from the board you want today. Your first setup is a learning tool, not a lifetime commitment. Get something in the right size range from a real brand, tighten the trucks a quarter turn, and go outside.

If you want to try a board before you spend anything, I bring multiple setups to every lesson. You can feel the difference between sizes and styles under your feet and make a decision based on actual riding, not internet opinions.